There is a window in the Westfjords autumn, usually a short one, when the rain stops, the wind drops and paint will still dry. This week it opened, and I drove west to catch it.
The building in question is the old barn at Lækur, which belongs to my uncle Sæmundur – Sæmi, Zoffi’s brother. It is not much to look at from the road, but it matters to us more than most: this is where our eiderdown is dried after the spring gathering, spread out and turned in the dry air until it is ready for cleaning. The barn had done its job for years without complaint, but the roof had gone grey and streaked with rust and, frankly, it was letting the place down.

So we hired a boom lift, a Genie S-45 that looked entirely out of place among the willows, and Sæmi and I got to work – he has painted more roofs in Dýrafjörður than he would care to count. Anyone who has painted corrugated iron from a basket in a Westfjords breeze knows it is one part painting and three parts waiting for the gust to pass.


The reward is the view. From the top of the lift you see the farm the way the eiders must see it coming in over the fjord in April: the farmhouse, the track, the plantation, and the sea beyond.




And here it is: red, like a barn on an Icelandic farm ought to be.

That was the last of the painting for this year. The next weekends belong to the autumn jobs: taking down the fox fence around the colony for the winter, and finishing the little watch hut from which we keep an eye on the nesting ground in spring. More on that soon.
Follow us on Instagram – @zoffi_eiderdown – for the small moments from Lækur between diary entries: the first eiders in spring, the fjord in every weather, and the work in between.
